South Korea

I met a Dutch traveller called Tess on the KTX down from Seoul. She had a…

Here’s something most travelers miss when they plan a Busan trip. Oedo Botania, the tiny offshore…

We were halfway up the granite stairs at Bulguksa when my guide stopped mid-sentence, turned toward…

You smell it before you see it — a faint, honeyed note on the breeze when…

Is the Seoul hop-on hop-off bus actually worth it when the subway system is one of…

The first time I tried to get to Everland I made a classic mistake. I rolled…

If you want one day out of Seoul that rewards you with more genuine “wow” moments…

On paper, a Han River cruise sounds like a gentle, maybe slightly dull, one-hour ferry ride….

My friend Mara came back from Seoul with a little laminated card in her wallet that…

Min ducks under a low doorway in a Haeundae apartment building, past a shoe rack that…

The studio smells faintly of shoe rubber and the mint-cold blast of industrial air-con. There is…

Here is the thing most guides forget to mention: if you walk into Gyeongbokgung Palace wearing…

One morning you are eating toast in a Seoul hotel that gets a signal strong enough…

Here’s the payoff: if your flight touches down at Incheon with a 4 to 10 hour…

So you’ve just watched Incheon tick past the window on descent, your phone is on 3%…

I flew into Gimhae on a Friday night, confident I’d just grab a SIM card from…

The smell was on my hands the next morning. Not the jar-kimchi funk you know from…

Most guides open with “Seoul is a megacity.” That’s true from the subway, and very false…

Did you know the little green bottle isn’t really the point? Real Korean soju — the…

Here is a number that caught me off guard when I first read it. Between 2014…

The chairlift stopped halfway up the mountain. My skis dangled over a snowfield the colour of…

My friend Elena flew to Seoul after a twelve-episode binge of Jewel in the Palace and…

Around 7:45pm on a cool October evening, I stood at Hwangnyeongsan Observatory and watched Busan flick…

The first time I tried to book a Gangnam tour I made a mistake that cost…